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A HEADS UP: WHAT SHOULDN'T BE IN YOUR HAIR CARE...

Kathleen Edsall

The shower is an amazing and magical place, it helps us wash away a bad day, its brings out our inner rock star and sometimes our best ideas. While in deep shower thought, have you ever contemplated what might be in the products you were scrubbing your scalp with? The products we use on our hair may contain chemicals that are detrimental to our health and damaging our lustrous locks.

WHAT SHOULDN’T BE IN YOUR HAIR CARE…

Parabens: Paraben exposure has been liked to increased risk of cancer, endocrine disruption and developmental/reproductive toxicity. Parabens are widely used in personal care products to increase shelf life. Parabens have been found present in 99% of human breast cancer tissue and have the ability to stimulate breast cancer cell growth.[1] How? Parabens mimic estrogen within the body, this action is linked to increased breast cancer incidence and disruption of male reproductive activity.[2] Parabens have also been linked to increased melanoma risk, making skin more susceptible to damaging UV rays.[1-2] Maternal exposure to parabens, during fetal development has also been related to disruption in the development of reproductive organs and has been linked to anxiety and behavioral changes in animal offspring.[3-4]

  • Label Look Out: methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben.

Formaldehyde or Formaldehyde Releasing Compounds: The national cancer institute recognizes Formaldehyde as a known carcinogen. This chemical is utilized in many personal care products to preserve the product, increasing shelf life. Formaldehyde can be disguised as a number of different names (listed below) and can even be found in products advertised as “natural” or “organic.”[5]

  • Label Look Out: Methyl Aldehyde, Methylene Oxide, Oxymethylene, Oxomethane, Quaternium- 15, DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl urea, Diazolidinyl urea, Polyoxymethylene, Urea, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, 2-bromo-2- nitropropane-1,3-diol (bromopol).

Octinoxate: Octinoxate has been linked to organ system toxicity, endocrine disruption, reproductive organ toxicity.[6] Octinoxate is included in products to filter UV-B rays from the sun and extend product life. Octinoxate is formed through a reaction that occurs between methoxycinnamic acid and 2-ethylhexanol and is fat soluble, meaning it dissolves in fat. Octinoxate can mimic estrogen in the body and aide in the proliferation (or growth) of estrogen receptor positive breast cancer. This chemical has also been linked to thyroid hormone disruption in males and females and reduction in sperm count in males.[6] The environmental working group (EWG) ranks this chemical as causing moderate hazard to humans.[7]

  • Label look out: omethoxycinnamate (OMC), parsol, parsol MCX, Parsol MOX, escalol, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, enzophenone, benzophenone, BP(followed by a number), sulisobenzone, sulisobenzone sodium

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (SLES) & Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS): SLES and SLS can be skin irritants and are often contaminated with known carcinogens such as 1,4 dioxane and ethylene oxide. The environmental working group ranks these bi-products as highly hazardous to humans, linked to increased cancer risk, developmental and reproductive toxicity and allergic reactions.[8]

Silicones: Silicones build up in hair inhibiting essential oils and nutrients from nourishing the hair, ultimately leading to damage and breakage. Silicones are placed in hair products to synthetically increase sheen and create an illusion of healthy hair. Buildup can also weigh down the hair making hair flat, dull, dry and damaged over time. 

  • Label look out: Cyclomethicone Dimethicone  Methicone Amodimethicone Dimethiconol Cyclomethicone/Cyclopentasiloxane …anything with a 'silo' or 'cone' is probably a type of silicone

Synthetic Fragrances: The EWG estimates that 75% of fragrance containing products contain phalates as part of their proprietary formula. Phalates are associated with reduced sperm counts, reproductive malformation, liver, breast cancer, diabetes, and obesity. Fetal exposure to phalates has also been linked with development of autism, ADHD, and neurological disorders, making mothers and children highly susceptible.[9] “Fragrance” is a term that can encompass thousands of chemicals, protected by law as trade secret, by avoiding products that contain “fragrance” as part of their formula you may be able to protect yourself from these chemicals.

Synthetic Colors: Many artificial dyes in food products have been banned for use due to increased cancer risk but remain less studied and regulated in cosmetic products.[10-12]. Dozens of synthetic dyes can be used in a single product to change color and appearance; your products may look pretty but it may be at your own risk. More research is needed to understand daily exposure to synthetic dyes through cosmetics and long term impact on human health. Our advice…why should you wait to find out? Products without dye and products containing natural dyes are becoming more widely available, allowing you to be safe rather than sorry!

Triclosan: Recently, the FDA banned the use of Tricolsan as a component of certain soaps due to its danger to human health, however the chemical was not banned from all products. Triclosan is a anti-microbial preservative used in soaps, shampoos, tooth pastes and other personal care products. Tricolsan has been linked to reproductive and developmental disorders, increased cancer risk and endocrine disruption.[13]

Polyethylene Glycols (PEG): PEGs are often contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, a known and possible human carcinogen. PEGs are petroleum derived and used in many creamy self care products to thicken, soften and retain moisture in the product. One study evaluating 100, non-certified, products labeled as “organic” or “natural” found 46% of the products tested to be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane. So how do you know if your product is contaminated - avoid products that contain PEGs.[14]

Retinyl Palmitate: Retinyl plamate has also has the ability to increase the skins susceptibility to UV rays, increasing skin cancer risk. Application of products containing retinyl palmitate should be avoided prior to or during sun exposure.[15] Retinyl palmate is a Vitamin-A derivative that is included in products to decrease discoloration of skin, roughness and wrinkling.

Ethanolamines: When ethanolamines mix with nitrogen, a bi-product of common preservatives found in self care products, nitrosamines can from. The term nitrosamine covers a variety of compounds, many of which are recognized as known carcinogens.[16] Ethanolamines covers a broad group of chemicals that are included in personal care products, including shampoo and conditioner, for a variety of reasons.

  • Label look out: Triethanolamine, diethanolamine, DEA, TEA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, lauramide DEA, linoleamide MEA, myristamide DEA, oleamide DEA, stearamide MEA, TEA-lauryl sulfate

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References:

  1. Darbre, Philippa D. and Philip W. Harvey. 2014. “Parabens Can Enable Hallmarks and Characteristics of Cancer in Human Breast Epithelial Cells: A Review of the Literature with Reference to New Exposure Data and Regulatory Status.” Journal of Applied Toxicology: JAT 34(9):925–38.

  2. Philippa D. Darbre, Philip W. Harvey. 2008. “Paraben Esters: Review of Recent Studies of Endocrine, Absorption, Esterase and Human Exposure, and Discussion of Potential Human Health Risks.” JOURNAL OF APPLIED TOXICOLOGY 28:561–578.

  3. Kang KS., et al., Decreased sperm number and motile activity on the F1 offspring maternally exposed to butyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid (butyl paraben). J. Vet. Med. Sci., vol. 64, no. 3, pp 227-35, 2002.

  4. Kawaguchi M., et al., Maternal isobutyl-paraben exposure alters anxiety and passive avoidance test performance in adult male rats. Neuroscience Research, vol. 65, no. 2, pp 136-40, 2009.

  5. Anon. 2011. “Formaldehyde and Cancer Risk.” National Cancer Institute. Retrieved November 11, 2018 (https://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/substances/formaldehyde/formaldehyde-fact-sheet).

  6. Anon. n.d. “Octinoxate.” Safe Cosmetics. Retrieved November 11, 2018 (http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/chemicals-of-concern/octinoxate/).

  7. Anon. n.d. “OCTINOXATE || Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database | EWG.” Retrieved November 11, 2018 (https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/704203/OCTINOXATE/).

  8. Anon. n.d. “SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE || Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database | EWG.” Retrieved November 21, 2018 (https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/706089/SODIUM_LAURETH_SULFATE/).

  9. Anon. n.d. “Phthalates and DEHP | Health Care Without Harm.” Retrieved November 21, 2018 (https://noharm-uscanada.org/issues/us-canada/phthalates-and-dehp).

  10. Potera, Carol. 2010. “DIET AND NUTRITION: The Artificial Food Dye Blues.” Environmental Health Perspectives 118(10):A428.

  11. Anon. n.d. “CSPI Says Food Dyes Pose Rainbow of Risks | Center for Science in the Public Interest.” Retrieved November 21, 2018 (https://cspinet.org/new/201006291.html).

  12. https://www.cancer.org/cancer/cancer-causes/cosmetics.html

  13. Weatherly, Lisa M. and Julie A. Gosse. 2017. “Triclosan Exposure, Transformation, and Human Health Effects.” Journal of Toxicology and Environmental Health. Part B, Critical Reviews 20(8):447–69.

  14. OCA (Organic Consumer Association). 2008. Consumer alert. Cancer-causing 1,4-dioxane found in personal care products misleadingly branded as natural and organic. Available: http://www.organicconsumers.org/bodycare/DioxaneRelease08.cfm

  15. Anon. n.d. “What Scientists Say About Vitamin A in Sunscreen.” EWG. Retrieved November 28, 2018 (https://www.ewg.org/research/what-scientists-say-about-vitamin-sunscreen).

  16. Anon. n.d. “National Toxicology Program: 14th Report on Carcinogens.” National Toxicology Program (NTP). Retrieved November 28, 2018 (https://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/go/roc14).